Catalogue Finding NumberSH:7/ML/E/17/0076
Office record is held atCalderdale, West Yorkshire Archive Service
TitleDiary page
Description[Diary Transcription]

except near the top a white domite-sandy path here and there — met a few cows going home to
avoid the heat — would return again at 5 p.m. for the night — did not go out of our way to ascend the
Petit Puy — stopt every now and then for a moment or 2 to breath and look about, and at the top in
1 2/.. hour at 8 35/.. — the guide himself never in his life went up in less than 3/4 hour, and generally takes an hour when
by himself — the ladies who went yesterday were 4 hours in getting up — what nonsense — might very well
ride to the top even the way we came, and quite well by the Prariou the way we returned —
the heat excessive till we reached the Petit Puy, and then a little air — a little breeze and felt cold at the top, so
only staid 1/4 hour — not a dry thread on me — very fine view towards Mont Dore, and Pont de Gibaud, of the sea (coulée) of lava
from the Puy de bois de cour to beyond Pont de Gibaud, and of all the Volcanic puys or mountains — among
the rest the Puy de Chopine with its bare red two-fold scary front very striking — thickish towards
Clermont but better today than yesterday — I seemed to look upon a vast plain on which the sea
of lava, and the Puys thrown together in 3 or 4 groups — the chapel (now scarce a stone of it remaining)
was not quite on the highest part of the summit — 10 minutes from the top (in descending) got specimens
of Domite, with specks of black and brownish yellow mica — at the crater of the Prariou in a
few minutes less than an hour, at 9 52/.. — the guide and George remained at the top while I (in 10 minutes) went
to the bottom of it and wound up again along the side — the bottom an oval about 50 yards by 40 — a nice green plot
of grass — the sides all covered with heather — a perfectly regular oval-based hollow cone, — with a few loose lava-stones
at the bottom piled into 2 heaps one at each end — a rim of grass 5 or 6 yards broad all round the rim
of the crater — and then all heather again — this the most perfect hereabouts — off again at 10 14/.. — all grass (except near the top
several tracks through domite sand and domite stones) in ascending the Puy de Dome, and the summit all grass, but in
descending (from the level of the little valley or hollow between the great and little Puy) all heather to the crater of the Prariou
and below this for a considerable way — the Puy de Dome all domite — at the cabaret, La Fontaine de
Berger at 10 40/.. — 6 or 8 labouring men at breakfast there — no milk — George and I had warm wine and water
and breakfasted on this and my bread and figs, — and off again at 11 25/.. — and à la Poste at Pont de Gibaud at 12 3/4 —
the poste a good-looking Inn, and ditto just opposite, l’Hotel de Commerce — tolerable little town with old chateau
on hill just above — since the 1st revolution belonging to, and inhabited by several proprietors — the town at the verge of the great coulée
of lava from the Puy de Bois de cour — called Pont de Gibaud from good 2 arch lava stone bridge over the
Sioule, here a broadish shallow stream, a few yards beyond La Poste — the Bordeaux road turns left, at right
angles, immediately after crossing the bridge — left our horse to bait, got one from the poste and a postillion
(a cocher) and off at 1 8/.. — obliged to have permission to see the mines of the proprietor le Comte de Pont
de Saint Gibaud — he at Clermont — Madame ‘à table’ — detained 35 minutes till she wrote a note to the
directeur Monsieur de St Etienne — in the mean while saw the foundery near the house — the ore contains 6
oz. silver per quintal (said Monsieur de St Etienne) put into the furnace with a flux of 5lbs. fluatée de
chaux to a quintal of old iron, and cinders added to this, — the chaux fluatée is verdatre, greenish — powdered —
brought from St Jacques (not far off 1 1/2 league off) — by a man at ./75 per quintal — off at 1 3/4 drove through narrow on each
side wooded (covered with beech and oak etc.) very pretty valley or defile with a stream winding all along the bottom — at the 1st silver
mine building at 2 50/.. — delayed 5 minutes — Monsieur de St Etienne just gone to the other and more distant building — there in 1/2 hour at 2 50/.. —
nice drive there — curious grottos in the basalt or lava rocks on approaching the pits — Monsieur de St Etienne
very civil — 1 1/2 hour in the mine — very fine lofty galleries — cost 47/. per metre — 3 feet wide and 6 feet high

but vary in their dimensions according to circumstances, though as often exceeding as not reaching the above
dimensions — very fine rich filon (vein) sometimes lying in baryte — 6 oz. silver per quintal — went
down 1 pump-pit 40 yards (metres) deep, perpendicularly set ladder — and down the other pit above 60 metres
deep — the filon is got in galleries 1 above another 1 gallery every 20 feet and 1 soupirail or air-vent
from the top of the surface, for about every 40 metres — leave 5 feet thick between each gallery — the filon
the better the deeper they go — came out of the mine at 4 3/4 — Monsieur de St Etienne — took me to see the curious
works and roads and tout compris have cost Monsieur de Pont de St Gibaud about (i.e. near) cent mille francs — 1 gallery of the mine
360+ metres long — off home at 5 20/.. — at Pont de Gibaud at 6 40/.. having been ten rising a few minutes examining the exterior of the old
Chateau — then George and I had each a basin of cold milk at La Poste — off again at 7 —
Had my Puy de Dome guide at the silver mines, and with me the whole day — set him
down at at his own house à la banque, at 9 1/2, and home at 10 10/.. — A- [Ann] had waited dinner — found it on the table —
very fine day — Fahrenheit 73° at 12 25/.. tonight —

Sunday 17
8 1/2
11 35/..
No kiss from Grenoble to here (and here put it back 1/2 hour) my watch 1/2 hour too soon — breakfast at 10 — very
fine morning Fahrenheit 75° at 9 1/2 a.m. off from chez Dessat Hotel de l’Ecu de France Clermont at 1 1/2 —
comfortable here in spite of the fair and the heat — the white hills as we go along covered with vines — Clermont
nice town — all the country might have been at the fair — abundance of hides (untanned) to be sold, and
all sorts of cattle, and wearing apparel and everything — Riom largeish straggling town ‘la plus jolie ville
de l’Auvergne Itineraire Centrale 115 — handsome boulevard but saw no particular beauty in the town — passed close
by the palais, a large plain but not handsome building — nice fine open corn-country from Riom with very
few vines — Aigueperse 1 long street — nice little town — Gannat a poorish little town — no postillion
one of the wheelers wanted to take us forward to Vichy so grand quarrel and mutual abuse between him and the maitresse
de poste — he said we ought to have turned off at Aigueperse — that the great new high road — she very civil to us —
only begged us to wait 1/4 hour — asked us into her house (not an Inn) and gave A- [Ann] a little cold turkey —
detained 39 minutes — Off from Gannat at 5 40/.. — at 7 forked lightning (no rain) descended the hill,
and fine view over the rich plain, and gravelly broad bedded Alliér (not much water) its large handsome
suspension bridge and the fine range of opposite well-wooded hill — at the bridge at 7 20/.. — 4 pair of suspension
pillars — long bridge over the broad bedded river — fine river — stopt, as recommended by the maitresse de Poste at
Gannat, at the Hotel Montaret, Vichy, at 7 25/.. — long while bargaining — a cheat of a woman —
she asked 15/. per day and 7/50 per ditto for the servants — then 40/. then 36/. and at last ran after me to the carriage to
take my price 30/. — too late to hunt about, or would not have troubled her more — Dinner at 8 1/4 — With Miss Walker
from eleven for thirty five minutes very fine day Fahrenheit 72° at 11 35/.. p.m. —

Monday 18
7 1/2
10 50/..
Long but not good kiss last night very fine morning — Fahrenheit 70 1/2° at 8 1/2 a.m. breakfast at 9. A- [Ann] and I took the
servants and out at 10 1/2 and came in again at 12 having seen the bathing establishment and walked about the public
walks, all the lions at Vichy — large handsome building built by the architects of Louis 16 — and close to
all the hotels — about 80 baths (baignoirs) 16 of them being in another good building called the hospital,
DateAug 1834
Extent1 page


ReprodnNoteThis transcript has been created to allow keyword searching within our online catalogue. A full transcription (marked-up to show extended abbreviations and highlighting all coded extracts) can be found as a pdf version at the volume level entry SH:7/ML/E/17. Every attempt has been made to ensure the accuracy of this transcription, however, researchers are advised to check against the original diary images before quoting from the transcriptions. We are also happy to receive any corrections to improve the accuracy of the transcriptions if they are found. Further editing will also take place once the project nears completion. For further information about the transcription project see the Anne Lister Diary catalogue entry at SH:7/ML/E.
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