Catalogue Finding NumberSH:7/ML/E/17/0075
Office record is held atCalderdale, West Yorkshire Archive Service
TitleDiary page
Description[Diary Transcription]

140
1834
August
La Bergère and wrote up journal — nice drive from Noiretable to La Bergère but the road these 3 last stages
very jolting at times — at La Bergère at 4 20/.. — sat writing in the carriage, in the large shed, and had done so
far of today at 5 — A- [Ann] wrote journal and added a little to her letter to her sister begun the day we left Chambéri —
from (at La Bergère) 5 5/.. to 5 35/.. inking over accounts and off at 5 38/.. — La Bergère merely the poste which seemed a tolerable
little auberge — road cut out of granite rock, and Durole, shallow stream, at our feet — narrow valley
beech and other wood — at 6 1/2 ravine — road buried walled and entirely cut out of the granite rock — just room for the
Durole at the bottom — fine view and fine zigzag descent upon Thiers — as seen from this side, large goodish town but most picturesque nice good town (as we afterwards saw
it from the other side) in a hanging garden of vines — fine look down upon rich wide amphitheatre plain below (the famous
Limagne of Auvergne) bounded by a fine range of mountains in the distance — pass through the town at 6 50/..
and still descend, and cross the Durole at 7, and in a few seconds stop at La Poste, large good-looking
house — must be a mile from the town, picturesque and beautiful see from this side — finely placed midway the mountain
and creeping down to the river and a few houses picturesquely scattered even on the other side of it — the maitre de poste pressed us to stay —
our postillion said only maçons slept at the Auberge at Lezouz [Lezoux] — we wanted to get a stage farther
thought we should have to pay dear enough at La poste here, so off at 7 17/.. (my watch 20 minutes
too soon ever since Grenoble) that we have time enough by the day for 1 3/4 page — at Leouz [Lezoux] at 8 55/.. —
à la poste — just dark — should have been glad to stay, but the woman very civil and honest — said they were
new people there and could not receive us — had not rooms nice enough — could not receive such as we — so off again at
9 1/4 and at Pont du Château a little moonlight, at 10 3/4 — would just as soon have slept at the last place — we had
a great large room with 5 beds in it, and were told there might perhaps come a voiturier to take one of
them in the middle of the night — but this I protested again and fastened the door with Jones’s boiler pan-handle —
supper such as it was at 11 — put all our things on chairs in the middle of the room for fear of punaisses —
for beds and supper for us all to pay 12/. — would have gone forward but did not like going into Clermont at
midnight — very fine day — very hot Fahrenheit 74° at midnight —

Friday 15
4 1/2
10 5/..
No kiss could not sleep much so bit — I had killed a bug on my night things just before getting into bed last night —
said not a word of this — A- [Ann] so bit, awoke before I got into bed — I saw she would not sleep, so rubbed
her all over with brandy — lucky thought, and she slept very well afterwards — had better have done the same to myself but
did not like the smell and feel of it, — so was worse off — very much bit all the night long — fine
morning Fahrenheit 72° at 5 1/4 — off from La poste at Pont du Chateau at 6 5/.. — Pont du Chateau a largeish town —
nice drive to Clermont — very populous thereabouts and in La Limagne — white houses dotted all
over among the vineyards — Clermont a handsome looking town in the distance — Mont Ferrand with its good church
about 1/2 mile off — saw it 1st, and, for a moment, took it for Clermont — at 7 25/.. drove up to the Hotel de
l’Europe at Clermont, as recommended à l’Hotel de l’Europe at Lyons — dirty poor place — sad
mistake for us to have been recommended there — the fair begins tomorrow so everything dear — drove off to the
Ecu de France — 1/2 hour before getting all settled — large double bedded room for which to pay 11/. per day —
dinner 8/. breakfast 3/. servants 8/. tout compris = 30/. per day — breakfast at 8 1/2 in an hour — asleep — undressed
and put on clean linen — Fahrenheit 75° at 11 50/.. — never felt the heat so much — A- [Ann] overcome — found that we were over the
kitchen — the hostess very civil — changed immediately into a smaller but cooler room — had a sort of 1 horse
stool-waggon (2 seats or benches and siège de cocher) took the 2 servants and all out at 1 20/.. — Petrifying well in the


141
1834
August
+
in the garden of the old convent of St Alyre — little things petrified in a month or 40 days — a dog in 5 or
6 months — ‘le pave’ a droll idea, but good, a little round space containing a petrified cow, man with a pail standing
against her, a goat and a dog — the man (of wax — a mannequin) took about 3/4 year the goat 9 or 10 months same as the
man, and the cow (real cow) 2 1/2 years — Le pont natural like a wall of rock in one part not more than
2 feet wide at the top, and over which we walked, a 240 pieds de longueur — hole at the bottom and the water
sort par là into the little fresh water brook that carries it off — it is forming another pont higher up —
qui se prolonge par 3 pouces par au, in spite of the water taken off for 20 baths, très frequentés —
a cabinet of petrifactures — a small requin (shark) 100/. — several bunches of holly which looked pretty
small birds etc. etc. but bought nothing of this kind — bought only 3 brochures by Monsieur Lecoq, savant and
pharmacien at Clermont, sort of guide books to the Puy de Domé Mont Dore etc. 3/4 hour there —
then 10 minutes at the cathedral till 2 1/2 — unfinished — only 4 arches of nave — not more than 1/2 the nave
done — but fine lofty building — beautiful proportions, and very beautiful painted glass windows all round the apsis
and in the nave, and fine marigold windows one at each end of the transept — very fine church — pity
the English did not complete their work — then to the Puy de la Poix, a low mountain about 2 or 3 miles
off on the Pont du Chateau road a little distance from the road (left as we went) — there in 40 minutes at 3 10/.. for
20 minutes — the pitch oozes perpetually though in small quantity from 3 or 4 little places in the rock — the most considerable
oozing is into a little hole like and about as big as a large English wash-hand basin — there one sees the
sulphuretted hydrogen gaz raise up the pitch in little bubbles, — and there, they say, the pigeons like
to drink — we walked all over the rock, and, though the sun was boiling, found no danger of leaving our shoes
stuck fast — In returning passed the botanic garden — shut — could not get in today — the fair, and too great a crowd
about — the garden small and did not excite in us great regret at not entering — it is close to the public library and cabinet
d’histoire naturelle — there at 4 20/.. for 1/2 hour — the librarian not there the man who shewed us round not
allowed to let us look into a book — nothing particular in the library or 1 room of minerals — good handsome
building — home at 5 10/.. — dinner at 5 1/2 — took the servants again and off at 6 55/.. for Royat — drove there
in 35 minutes — 3/4 hour seeing the sights — church and under church where is the virgin that used to do miracles —
the basalt grotte with its 7 springs all conveyed to Clermont — the grenier de Cæsar, and brought away
some of the old mineralized wheat — the baths also called de Cæsar warm sulphurous water tolerably
strong — examined also some old remains of walling the women guides called Roman, but of about the 3rd century, and
not at all Roman — very pretty situation — very pretty valley but so wooded one could see nothing —
too late into the bargain — home at 8 3/4 — set to go to the top of the Puy de Dome and to the silver mines
tomorrow very fine day — very hot. Fahrenheit 73° at 9 20/.. p.m. —

Saturday 16
4
12 3/4
No kiss fine Fahrenheit 73° at 4 50/.. a.m. carriage of yesterday — left A- [Ann] in bed, took George and off at 5 6/.. — no breakfast
but took with us a pain and some figs — delayed on the bridge 1/4 hour before we could pass through the crowd of carts
or rather waggons with 1 or 2 pair cows, oxen, or bulls — in about 10 minutes or 1/4 hour at the foot of the
mountain and then 1 hour of traversing and montée — fine views of Clermont — at 6 3/4 at La barraque a
little auberge du Cheval Blanc where took up my guide to the Puy de dome, a tall strong looking
long-legged man ætatis [age of] 42, who said he had been a great deal with Mr. Paulet Scrope who gave his 7/50 a day
and fed him like himself — delayed 10 minutes — in 1/4 hour at 7 10/.. leave the Pont de Gibaud road and turn
right along sandy by-road for 20 minutes more and alight at 7 1/2, and sent the carriage to wait for me at
La Fontaine de Bérger, a cabaret by Pont de Gibaud road side, farther on — green-sward all the way
DateAug 1834
Extent1 page
LevelPiece
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ReprodnNoteThis transcript has been created to allow keyword searching within our online catalogue. A full transcription (marked-up to show extended abbreviations and highlighting all coded extracts) can be found as a pdf version at the volume level entry SH:7/ML/E/17. Every attempt has been made to ensure the accuracy of this transcription, however, researchers are advised to check against the original diary images before quoting from the transcriptions. We are also happy to receive any corrections to improve the accuracy of the transcriptions if they are found. Further editing will also take place once the project nears completion. For further information about the transcription project see the Anne Lister Diary catalogue entry at SH:7/ML/E.
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