Catalogue Finding NumberSH:7/ML/E/17/0067
Office record is held atCalderdale, West Yorkshire Archive Service
TitleDiary page
Description[Diary Transcription]

124
1834
August
seated on a green spot or plateau high under the mountain — a very large pile of building — reached it
at 1 — no ladies allowed to enter the monastery (Cistertian — habit of white cloth — confined by white cord or leather belt — a serge shirt —
no linen allowed) — the great entrance gate looks south — passed and went into a building at a little distance
an old infirm monk and 2 women there in the large comfortless looking room on the left — the right fermé à
clef — so my request for a bed for A- [Ann] to lie down upon; in vain — she ate her fowl, and then lay
down upon the bench along the table with chairs to prevent her falling off, and the coats and cloaks for
a pillow — by this time about 1 3/4 it began to rain (it had rained a little during the last 1/2 hour as we came) and soon afterwards
we had heavy rain with thunder and lightning -which did not abate till just before we set off on our return —
I had amused myself spelling over a plan of the convent the terrific prints of a soul in purgatory surrounded with flames, and
ditto in hell surrounded with flames with the addition of large green serpents gnawing the body —
this amusement over I was cross to see poor A- [Ann] so comfortless — however she was better, and quite
reconciled to hear that I should return rain or not — our garçon guide had kept out of the way
and pothered me — at last he came and would have 43 sols for his dinner — I was astonished but gave him the
money — inquired of an Italian family in the room with us and the waiter and got a note proving that the fellow had only paid 15 sols, and made
him refund the rest to his shame and surprise — for the ostler charging only 16 sols for the
3 mules, I could not think the dinner could cost so much — off at 3 40/.. from La Grande Chartreuse
A-’s [Ann] mule so stumbling soon put her on to mine — in 5 or 6 minutes found our guide lame —
George led A-’s [Ann] mule, and the guide mounted his — in 5 or 6 minutes more I tired out of the stumbling
and mounted George’s mule, and let the guide have the stumbler, and made George mount behind A- [Ann]
and thus we got on, trotted when we could, he holding A- [Ann] on and holding her bridle too, and in 50
minutes we reached the pyramidal rock — and in 3 minutes under 2 hours we were at Pont St Laurent (without a
drop of rain) and paid for the mules — would not give the guide one sol, nor would I listen to the master or the
boy who owned the saddles and wanted me to pay for them extra, but was off in the char that was in
waiting at 5 40/.. and alighted at our Inn at Echelles at 6 20/.. — from Pont St Laurent to the
Chartreuse the road is good in comparison — not dangerous — everywhere wide enough — nowhere less than 8 or 9 feet even in those little bits
(just after passing the foundry and afterwards) cut out of the rock — the only disagreeable was the mules
loaded with fir planks and spars which being 4 or 5 yards long were rather tremendous to pass — besides
these we had mules laden with charcoal which though not so frightful, were not to be desired —
Except the Gorge d’Ortessa from Mont Perdu down to Torla, the gorge or defile to the Chartreuse
is the finest I ever saw — it is really magnificently fine — thickly wooded even to the tops of the high
wall-like rocks — surely they must be in many places 12 or 1400 feet above the river — the wood is
perhaps chiefly beech with fir nearer the Chartreuse intermixed and towards the tops of the rocks —
limestone strata highly inclined — we should have seen the chapel of St Bruno but it is 1/4 league from the
monastery — would take us an hour to go and return and I was too much afraid of the rain — they wanted us to stay all
night — but the Italian family who dined while we were there had only could only get soup, omelette and potatoes — and
strawberries and this did not augur well — one guide wanted us to go to La paroisse, an hour off, but this
I declined — glad to be back aux Echelles — dinner at 6 33/.. good rice milk and strawberries (besides soup, fowl,
and roast mutton) and comfortable — Till 10 1/4 wrote the journal of today — A- [Ann] wrote 2 1/3 ppages to my aunt and was in bed by 10 —
no rain as we returned and fine evening and very fine in the morning till about 1 1/2 p.m. — Fahrenheit 68° now at 10 1/4 p.m. —
Till 12 1/2 wrote very small and close the latter 2/3 page 3 and the end’s of A-’s [Ann] letter to my aunt and wrote 2 1/2 ppages to Lady Gordon —


125
1834
August Saturday 2
8
10 25/..
U
L
L
U
U
No kiss though she came to me for about half hour at six this morning lay very quietly — fine morning
Fahrenheit 67° at 8 a.m. breakfast at 9 — very well satisfied till the bill came -and then I said the being charged 8/. a night for our
double bedded room and the 2 servants’ rooms was ridicule — however the man said I had agreed to pay 19/. per day for
all and everything and he had distributed the price so as to come to that — the fact is, I have a good lesson — I now see according to his valuation what dinners
and breakfasts ought to be in little town like this — off from Les Echelles at 11 5/.. having previously agreed with the postmaster
for the horses at 3 at 1/50 and the 4th at 1/. per poste, and paid him telling the postillion I should only give him 1/50
per post — Alighted at the grotte, on the other side the tunnel, at 11 39/.. — walked down to the bottom of the old road
and back in 1/2 hour — In descending the 1st natural cave (on the left) is of considerable extent — the curé a little while
ago during la grande scheresse went on 1/2 hour in it — sometimes on hands and knees — a little lake at the far end of the cavern — the large cavern
just on this side of the inscription in honour of Charles Emmanuel, and a little lower down (right) now the water course, was the original road along which the people made use of ladders
to get up and down the inequalities, and from which the neighbouring town was called Les Echelles, on account of the ladders being
left there — the man at the grotte would have accompanied us, but he was not well, and we could not now
go into the cavern on account of the late rain — but during secheresse one could go through the cavern and it is
very interesting — off again in 33 minutes at 12 12/.. — a few drops of rain as we drove along from the grotte — on reaching
St Thiebault de coux found there was a capital most picturesque new road just opened about 2 months ago direct from
Les Echelles by Voreppe where 2 good Inns — 6 1/2 postes from there to Grenoble — 10 postes to ditto
by Chambéry — should save 2 postes by turning back — would have done so but for the torment of
a little douane on entering France (vide yesterday) — this road just going to be entered in the livre des postes —
at present the postmaster charged the 1st stage postes, but it was not in reality so much — at the
Cascade de Coux at 1 3/4 and alighted at La Parfaite Union, Chambery, at 2 25/.. —
tired — had 1/2 hour’s nap in my chair — then A- [Ann] and I out at 3 1/2 put into the post office A-’s [Ann] and my letter to my
aunt Shibden written last night and dated at Les Echelles — would be in Paris in 3 days and I paid 6 sols français —
put in the Post Office also my letter 2 1/2 ppages to ‘Lady Duff Gordon, Poste restante, à Munich, Bavière’
dated as today at Chambery — paid 1/. — will be at Munich in 8 days — then went to the nursery garden
saw Frederic Burnier — went about with us very civilly — Told him to give the habitat and temps du floraison
locality where and time when gathered of each specimen — sauntered about the town — went to the castle — saw
the Ste Chapelle — fine painted glass windows — lofty groined roof — exterior handsome old gothic except the
modern Greek front to the castle yard — old ruined empty partly-square-and-partly-round tower singular but picturesque —
home at 5 25/.. — dinner (very good one) at 5 40/.. — had a Lavaret (salmo lavaretus) excellent, the sort of fish
the fishermen on Lake Bourget, at Hautecomb, asked us 4/. a piece for — as large and ∴ [therefore] 1 lb. weight —
the 1st time I remember to have tasted this fish — melon brought with the veal cutlets steaks — Sat long over
dessert — till 9 25/.. wrote all the above of today — a few drops of rain at the grotte and afterwards occasional showers during
the rest of the day — Fahrenheit 69° now at 9 25/.. p.m. — the drive from Chambéry to Les Echelles is certainly very fine —
Chambéry a very nice town, but one must marchander with everybody — I ought to have done so
with my garden botaniste Mr. Frederic Burnier, but I never thought of it at the time — he said, they had here
64 journals of ground in nursery — a journal = 4000 French feet carrés — sometimes (in the spring
and autumn and now when much work to do) 250 workpeople — have given up the establishment at Turin — but
one at Lyons and Grenoble, the latter newly established — With her twenty minutes before getting into my own bed —
DateAug 1834
Extent1 page
LevelPiece
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