Catalogue Finding NumberSH:7/ML/E/17/0065
Office record is held atCalderdale, West Yorkshire Archive Service
TitleDiary page
Description[Diary Transcription]

120
1834
July
(at sols the lb.) 64 sheets for 1 franc — the man said times were much better (le commerce allait beauc[ou]p
mieux) du temps des Français [(trade was going much better) under the French] — now, he, whose work begins at midnight for 11 hours every night, and
always in water has 44 francs a month about 30 sols a day, the wages of the best workmen and the others had, all
of them from 34 up to 44/. a month — the women had 12 sols a day — but they have each a room in the building
that I suppose they live rent-free — the paper that sold du temps de Napoleon for 40/., and was no sooner made
than sold, now hangs on hand and sells for 18/. or 20/. — asked if the King had been at Chambéry —
yes! at the paper manufactory I said he was très bon — bon enfant — no! said the man the manufactory had always given him some thing but he had never given
anything in return — things could not go on in this way — an hour at the cascade and in the manufactory —
returned another way, by Alby, but had unluckily left at home Madame Puthod’s paper so forgot to
get Saturnin en passant — the cocher, however, stopt at the great nursery garden, and we staid an hour there,
and ordered a collection of roses to take back with us! thought this would be a nice place to send to little John
to — spoke to the man about it — he seemed to have no objection — will see him again and have more
information as to terms — the boy should be ætatis [age of] 14 — these people have an establishment at Lyons and Grenoble
and Turin — are chiefly famous for roses, dahlias, and of which they have every variety — the young
man makes excursions to the mountains — has a herbary of above 6000 plants — to go there and see this at 10 a.m. on Wednesday —
drove round the place, and promenade de Verny, and home at 8 1/4 — dinner at 8 1/2 — very fine day. Fahrenheit 71 1/2° at
11 1/4 p.m. — too much dinner ¬— very hot — asleep in my chair after Eugenie left me till near 11 —

Tuesday 29
7
12 1/4
No kiss very fine morning Fahrenheit 71° at 8 — breakfast at 8 1/2 — Off in Caleche (taking both the servants) at 9 3/4 —
fine drive — the valley of Chambéry enclosed by fine Salève-like but wooded mountains very fine — the
Dent de Nivolet a bare hoary limestone head a striking object on our right ¬— enter Aix at 11 10/.. — at the roadside near Gressy at 11 38/..
walked down a little way to the corn and rape oil mill in whose premises is the famous cascade —
very little water — the limestone rock left bare, so that we could well see the holes into which it is water worn —
10 June, 1813, there was merely a plank over the hole (14 feet deep) in which Madame la Baronne de Broc was
lost — now there is a good step-ladder over it with a rail on each side, and no danger at all —
merely a cottage near the roadside where we alighted and a swarm of children tormenting us with who
should shew us to the cascade — the clefts down which the water falls into a sort of basin below the mill
very pretty now — must be very much so, and fine when the water is abundant, foaming and gushing in on all
sides — off from Gressy at 12 and at Port Puer on the lake de Bourget in 22 minutes — a boat
just putting with a Lyons tradesman and his wife and child and bonne, so that we were embarked and off
at 12 25/.. — in 36 minutes 1/2 way, and landed at Hautecombe at 1 53/.. — Lake 4 lieues by 1 — 466 feet deep about the
middle over against St Innocent which belongs or did formerly to the marquis de St Innocent — the fishermen of all the towns
on the lake take it of government at 4500 francs a year paid 4terly [quarterly] — 2 trout caught the other day weighing
25 lbs each, worth 5 francs a lb.! the dead to be buried at Hautecombe are embarked at a ville
above St Innocent, at Brison a ville of 26 houses — the lake shut in East and West by high calcareous, hoary, wooded
mountains in the style of Annecy, and north by the castle topped conical mountain of Châtillon, and South by the distant
snow-striped mountains of Montmélian and Dauphiné — Hautecombe about 2/3 up the lake on the west
is a fine large building — on the same side seeming about midway between there and Aix is the vaulted dent du
chat — the wind a little against in going but the water very smooth — A- [Ann] rather frightened but behaved very well —


121
1834
July
U
the water was smooth as glass both ways particularly in returning — on landing, wanted to buy some fish from one
of the boats — Lavarets (Selmo Lavaretus, Linn.) weighing 1 lb. each, asked 4 francs a piece and would only
come down to 3/75 so did not buy any — the boatmen said they would sell them at 3/. each at Aix —
many strangers at the convent — 10 white monks of St Bernard or Benoit — went immediately to the church
several people there — a monk explaining — found him very civil — the church will be done in November —
all the sculpture done in Pierre de Seyssel (the quarry in France part of the territory in Savoy said
the monk) which looked so exactly as if it had been white washed that we thought it was till convinced
to the contrary — the fine fresco-paintings in the church and palace done by Vacca of Turin, the sculpture very good by Caracciatori
of Carrara — went into his attelier — said there were 60 atteliers at Carrara — They themselves had
a good deal of sculpture there ready done — the natural size whole length figures 3000 francs each — the church very handsome —
the palace merely a good house but remarkable for its fine fresco plafonds by Vacca — the view
from one windows over the lake to the south very fine — beautiful lake — the last 5 generations of the house of
Savoy (except the last King Charles Felix by his especial desire) all buried in the Superga at Turin —
about 25 of this house buried at Hautecombe — saw the little chapel of St Andre with its modern thin
8tagon? [octagon] red brick tower, to serve as a sort of pharos to the lake — the windows of this tower painted (beautifully) by
a German artist of Berne in Switzerland — about 2 years ago some political letters or papers found in his
possession that he was threatened with prison, and went to Lyons leaving his brother behind him to fulfil his
engagements as an artist — but the matter is now likely to be settled, and the artist to return to Berne he has
still 3 windows to paint for the chapel — at 4 35/.. went to the house of the concierge du palais and begged the
favour of being to take our luncheon there — all the other people dined sur l’herbe — off to the Fountain
at 4 1/4 and there in 7 minutes dragging on A- [Ann] after me, though they said we should be 20 minutes in going — hardly
any water — Too little to shew the intermittent nature of the spring — but glad to have gone on account of the
view of the head of the lake — by the canal from there to the Rhone said we could go to Lyons in 3 days —
walked some little distance beyond the fountain and sauntered back in 1/4 hour — the Lyons people had waited 1/2 hour for us —
reembarked and off at 4 47/.. — cooler — merely a nice breath of air — the beautiful blue lake smooth as glass —
landed at Port Puer at 5 49/.. single house merely an auberge there, and little landing place — paid 3/. par personne for
our voyage, and off again in our calêche (the man had taken his horses and dined at Aix) for Aix at 5 58/.. —
alighted at the chateau at 6 13/.. just in time — the fore bed of the carriage was broken that another instant and
the horses and fore wheels would have left us in the lurch — saw the handsome new salle de Danse joined on to
the chateau — and the library one wall of which is left in its old state to shew the large uncemented stones of the
Roman temple of Diana — the adjoining building (now converted into a theatre) was the
temple — we went behind and underneath the scenes and saw the old Roman style of building — then not knowing
what to do with ourselves turned into the court of the house of les demoiseelles de Vernay, let to several families —
walked in the nice garden ¬— should be very well there and living from a Traiteur — at last thought of the
bookseller’s shop in the Place — amused there looking at prints and books — bought 2 different Aix guides —
off from Aix at 7 3/4 and home at 9 1/4 — dinner at 9 50/.. — very fine day and evening — Fahrenheit 73° at 11 p.m. —
DateJul 1834
Extent1 page
LevelPiece
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ReprodnNoteThis transcript has been created to allow keyword searching within our online catalogue. A full transcription (marked-up to show extended abbreviations and highlighting all coded extracts) can be found as a pdf version at the volume level entry SH:7/ML/E/17. Every attempt has been made to ensure the accuracy of this transcription, however, researchers are advised to check against the original diary images before quoting from the transcriptions. We are also happy to receive any corrections to improve the accuracy of the transcriptions if they are found. Further editing will also take place once the project nears completion. For further information about the transcription project see the Anne Lister Diary catalogue entry at SH:7/ML/E.
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