Catalogue Finding NumberSH:7/ML/E/17/0064
Office record is held atCalderdale, West Yorkshire Archive Service
TitleDiary page
Description[Diary Transcription]

July Sunday 27
very fine morning Fahrenheit 69 1/2° at 7 a.m. Sat writing in her room till eleven and not at all with her last night — reading
ready at 7 this morning and looking at maps till 7 3/4 — breakfast at 7 3/4 — prayers (ourselves and George) from 8 50/.. to 9 1/2 — A- [Ann] and I off in little
char at 9 57/.. — very pretty drive along the lake shallow and reedy along the margin, and at Duing or Douin
at 11, a small ville — little auberge and a few cottages and the château — at the foot of the mountain de Déré — agreed with
cocher to take us to the head of the lake for 2 francs more (7 + 2 = 9 francs) — there in 25 minutes at 11 1/2 — a sort of little port — a house and stabling and coal depot and 2 or 3
flat-bottomed carrying boats to take to Annecy the coal (like anthracite) from the mountain d’Entreverne
a little to the south of the head of the lake, — and wood, and one of the boats was laden with a yellowish
friable, clayy earth — 1/4 hour here walking about — the lake from Douin narrower, and more
confined, and prettier — the hoary green-speckled, calcareous mountains very fine — back at Douin in 25
minutes at 12 1/4 — stopt 1/2 hour at the little auberge (belonging to the people who kept it) for A- [Ann] to eat
her cold chicken — the woman had lived in service at the château and volunteered going with us to see it — called
Chateauvieux built on a a little promontory that seems almost or quite to close the lake when seen from
the other end of the lake — it was before the revolution of 1791 the property the marquis de Sales whose
son the present marquis is now anxious to buy it but the present proprietor, Monsieur Berthé, who married
a Genevese and spends his winters at Geneva, asks 100,000 francs and the marquis only bids 90,000 francs
the house and all about it, nice little gardens and terraces, are all mal entretenus, but nothing is
done now that Monsieur and Madame Berthé have lost their only child a boy of six years old — before his
death they kept a pension here and the château was full of people — among them many English — the
château took us 40 minutes — off again at 1 25/.. back at Annecy at 2 33/.. — a few light drops of rain
at 2 1/4 for about 10 minutes very good road all the way, shaded with walnut trees — walked about
Annecy — good and largeish town — most of the streets arcaded as is common in Italy — went into the 2
principle churches, not handsome but full of people ¬— walked up to the castle — a barrack, so not
allowed to enter the court without permission which not worth while to ask for — a large pile of
building — looking not very ancient perhaps about 12th or 13th century ¬— Off from the hotel de Genève
(the only one to go to) Annecy, at 3 33/.. — rain not heavy at 4 25/.. for about 20 minutes — at Alby at 5 10/.. —
little church and town, and deep bedded stream, and handsome white stone bridge (one high arch) over it, and and ascend the hill by fine new road cut
out of the rock — very fine, and beautiful, and picturesque here — well cultivated well wooded fine country —
and fine mountain drive all the way from Annecy — still the white Salève-like, steppy mountains, but more
wooded — neat farm houses scattered though rather thinly all around — the Savoy valleys less populous
than the Swiss — Albens at 6, neat little town — here we get into the great high road from Geneva
to Chambéry which we left at Saint Julien — Still the same fine, cultivated, wooded, rich, beautiful
country and excellent road as before but rather wider — road all today (as yesterday) almost everywhere lined
with trees — willows, Lombardy poplars (the tall, pyramidal) great many walnuts, and a few elms
and apple trees — At Aix at 7 25/.. — 1200 strangers — not a bed to be had — the maître de poste
recommended my going to La Poste at Chambéry — the commis we had from there, to go about with us, said La
Parfait Union was the best hotel — he went with us to see the baths, the bains Romains discovered
about 3 years ago, in the garden of Madame Perrier, and the Roman arch near the pension of Madame Charpentier —

[margin text:] Alby beautifully situated at the edge of plateau above the deep stream but at the foot of a cluster
of green, wooded hills — glimpse of old castle tower farish to the left —

this last has 10/. a day including board and lodging par personne and 5/. for servants — chez Madame Perrier, and at La
Poste 7/. a day and 3/50 for servants — tasted the water at the source — slightly sulphurous — not near so strong
as at Harrogate — a very abundant spring — the swimming bath struck me as very small — not more than
5 or 6 yards square — what they called L’Enfer (the men’s vapour bath) was hot and suffocating enough to deserve
its name — A- [Ann] could not even put her head into it — The thermes or bains Romains are very well
worth seeing — perhaps the most perfect to be seen anywhere except at Rome — They say, there would be
much more found if the garden was more searched into — the water goits — corridors supported by 1 row
of round and 1 of square low pillars communicating supplying with the large square piscinum, are very perfect as
are many of the square earthen vapour tubes (like fine brick) communicating with the vapour bath above —
the Roman arch was never much ornamented and the ornaments there were are much worn and obliterated — Off
from Aix at 8 8/.. grieved over being in the dark, but it could not be helped — Alighted at
La Parfait Union, in a quiet little square en face de la Cathédrale at Chamberry at 10 —
dinner at 11 — fine day in spite of the slight showers at 2 1/4 and 4 25/.. p.m. Fahrenheit 71° at 12 55/.. tonight —

Monday 28
11 55/..
No kiss fine morning Fahrenheit 70° at 10 a.m. breakfast at 10 20/.. to 11 1/4 — had ordered and waited for calêche — so
old looking and dirty, would not have it, and A- [Ann] and I went out on foot — peeped into the cathedral — the interior undergoing repair —
not either very large or handsome building, and the interior painted in fresco imitation of gothic ornament —
very bad taste — though the deep blue roof with gold stars and fresco groining looked well enough — then to a
booksellers in the Place St Leger — fortunately stumbled upon the best, Puthod above an hour there and bought several works — particularly
the 1st 5 nos. [numbers] at 3/. (15 more to come) of vúes de la Savoy.... suivies d’un précis historique and descriptif published
here by Côurtois et Aubert Lithographes — gave my address and desired the other nos. [numbers] to be sent to
me aux soins de Messrs. Laffitte, Paris — whom I would direct to pay for them — the female person in
the shop very civil — gave us directions what to see — sent her servant with us to La Poste for a carriage — a little
char 6/. a day, and should only be 3/. for this afternoon — but the maître de poste ask 6/. for this afternoon and 18/. a day
for a calêche and pair — at last bargained for the latter to take me to Aix and the char for 22/. — saw the rooms —
smelt strong of new papering and plastering and beds at 3/. and noisy, bustling place — very glad we were not there, and
quite contented with La parfait union —
from 2 10/.. to 4, walked to Les Charmettes where Rousseau and Madame de Warens lived, and some time there — nothing
but nonsense in the Livre des Strangers, so declined writing even our names — went one way and returned another —
we were near 1/2 hour going from La Poste — fine view of the town in returning — nice, clean, well-built, good looking
town, not very large — in going had bought 18 good green gages for a sol — came home for 1/2 hour for A- [Ann] to have her cold
fowl, and off in the char at 4 1/2 — passed through the little ville of Aisse, and at the paper manufactory au bout
du monde at 5 10/.. ¬— one of the workmen shewed us the cascade (50 to 100 yards off at the back of the
building) — not much water now, but still very picturesque and pretty — the water the Doria falls from a fine cleft in the high limestone
rock — on each side are little springs gushing from the rock which springs the man said were cold in summer and hot
in winter — the strata of the rock are here at the cascade, and more particularly a little lower down and turning up along the
little river Aisse now all but dry (which falls into the Doria at the mill in time to swell the stream and turn the wheel) very singular —
look exactly like a wall of stones about a foot long and 6 inches in the bed -and this stratification extends too some little
way down the Doria — the man shewed us, too, the process of paper making and we bought nice soft papier gris
DateJul 1834
Extent1 page


ReprodnNoteThis transcript has been created to allow keyword searching within our online catalogue. A full transcription (marked-up to show extended abbreviations and highlighting all coded extracts) can be found as a pdf version at the volume level entry SH:7/ML/E/17. Every attempt has been made to ensure the accuracy of this transcription, however, researchers are advised to check against the original diary images before quoting from the transcriptions. We are also happy to receive any corrections to improve the accuracy of the transcriptions if they are found. Further editing will also take place once the project nears completion. For further information about the transcription project see the Anne Lister Diary catalogue entry at SH:7/ML/E.
ReprodnRightsNoteIMAGE USE AND LICENSING - Individual images of Anne Lister’s diary can be used on SOCIAL MEDIA for NON-COMMERCIAL purposes at no charge with an acknowledgement to West Yorkshire Archive Service. For a Twitter or Facebook post the suggested acknowledgement is ‘Image courtesy of @wyorksarchives’. For an Instagram post the suggested acknowledgement is ‘Image courtesy of @westyorkshirearchive’. Requests for other forms of reuse or publication should be directed to the West Yorkshire Archive Service for approval. Licensing or publication fees may apply.TRANSCRIPTION USE AND LICENSING - Copyright in this transcription remains with the West Yorkshire Archive Service. Researchers are welcome to quote from the transcription and we request that they acknowledge their quotes with the words ‘West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale, SH:7/ML/E/17’. For quotes on a Twitter or Facebook post the suggested acknowledgement is ‘@wyorksarchives’. For an Instagram post the suggested acknowledgement is ‘@westyorkshirearchive’. Requests for other forms of reuse or publication of this transcription should be directed to the West Yorkshire Archive Service for approval. Licensing or publication fees may apply. The web link for this transcription is which can be used to link directly to this transcription.
    Powered by CalmView© 2008-2024