Catalogue Finding NumberSH:7/ML/E/17/0051
Office record is held atCalderdale, West Yorkshire Archive Service
TitleDiary page
Description[Diary Transcription]

92
1834
July
postilions and if I gave something to him (promised 5/.) he would pay them — at 1 50/.. heavy rain and thunder —
the rain continued all the rest of the way to Bonneville (cleared up for a short while very soon after our arrival)
and about 1/2 hour from the ville the thunder was so near and loud and the lightning so frequent and vivid A-’s [Ann] lips
turned pale, and she was a good deal frightened — At Bonneville at 4 1/4 (La poste) — settled to stay
all night — dinner at 5 1/2 in 50 minutes excellent roast veal — very comfortable — afterwards till 6 40/..
wrote all the above of today — this valley of Faucigny (the ruins of the old chateau of that name on conical
hill (left) at some little distance above the ville) very fine — just going out at 6 3/4 when rain again — looking
at maps and reading Ebel’s guide till 9 10/.. — fine morning and day till near 2 (vide top line) — perpetual
showers after the thunder storm had ceased about 4 1/2 — Fahrenheit 71° now at 9 p.m. — With her twenty
five minutes ~

Friday 4
4 3/4
11 20/..
U
U
Goodish kiss last night too short to her fine but rather cloudy morning not unlike more rain
Fahrenheit 68° at 5 3/4 a.m. — off from La poste Bonneville at 6 12/.. nice room and comfortable beds —
hops just out of Bonneville at Cluse [Cluses] at 7 3/4 — might sleep there apparently at the hotel de l’Ecu de France —
pretty good little town for such a situation — valley all the way very fine — narrow just out of Cluses
magnificent — the rain of yesterday swelling the streams — just room for the
Arve and the road — rather wide afterwards — at the grotto at 8 12/.. — did not stop to see it — I had seen it
in 1827 — 3 minutes giving the horses water — at St. Martin at 9 1/2 — if going direct
to Chamouni [Chamonix], need not cross the bridge to Sallenche [Sallanches], but go straight from St. Martin fine view from
the bridge — at Sallenche [Sallanches] at 9 35/.. — breakfast there at the hotel de Bellevue — fine view of Mont Blanc
from the balcony — arranged our things — packed my travelling bag for our mountain wanderings — left the
carriage and Eugenie to wait our return, took George and off in a char-à-banc (obliged to take
him inside) at 1 33/.. — at the Bains de St. Gervais in 23 minutes — very pretty — fine deep narrow
wooded valley — just behind the baths little more than room for the river — zig-zag path to some distance up the
hill for good view of the fine cascade about 200 yards from the house — wooden baths, douches,
and everything convenient enough — can accommodate about 150? people — 50 there now — the prime minister has
taken 2 rooms — 7 francs a day includes everything (for one person and one bed) and 6 francs a day for servants —
off at 2 50/.. and at Chède in 1/2 hour — very fine day all the way — at Servoz at 4 27/.. — while baiting the horses,
amuse ourselves in the shop, close by, of ‘Monsieur Deschamps naturaliste à Servoz au Savoie
par Genève à Servoz’ — buy herbaire of alpine plants 200 for 18/. — some very fine mineral
specimens — complete collection the neighbouring alps = 160 specimens for mineralogy + 80 for geology
a very nice good size for study and portability at 3/. per specimen — off at 5 3/4 — rain very
nearly all the way from Servoz to Chamouni [Chamonix] at 7 5/.. Hotel de Londres — A- [Ann] wet put her to bed
immediately before dinner at 8, and had the table placed at her bedside — 1 double bedded room and 1 single ditto adjoining
for George — our postillion would take us from Sallanche [Sallanches] to Geneva for 46 francs — had the guide chef —
dinner things not taken away till 9 1/2 — fine day till near 5 — then rainy all the day and evening Fahrenheit 67°
now at 10 1/2 p.m. —


93
1834
July Saturday 5
5 35/..
10
+
No kiss only ten minutes with her and quiet ~ fine morning Fahrenheit 62° at 5 35/.. — long in dressing and settling things for
A- [Ann] and myself — breakfast at 7 40/.. — off at 8 55/.. and at Montanvert at 11 — walked about 1/2 way and rode about 1/2 the way
up letting George ride while I walked — went about a hundred yards on the mer de glace
A- [Ann] between the 2 guides — as far as people usually do go — in returning, went to the damp, low cave (in the style of
Gollis but sunk 2 steps instead of even with the ground) where Pocock and Windham slept, on discovering the valley of
Chamouni [Chamonix] and mer de glace — on the stone or rock forming the roof of the cave is cut in large reddened letters ‘Pocock
et Windham 1747’ — an hour at the mer de glace etc. — then 1/4 hour at the Pavillon getting boiled
milk, and off back again at 12 1/4 — home at 2, all of us having walked all the way down very quickly on account
of the rain — not heavy but constant from about 12 3/4 to near 2 — A- [Ann] not tired though much heated as well as myself —
took off her habit and went to bed for an hour and we all had boiled milk again — settling with David, the guide,
about journey tomorrow etc. A- [Ann] up and out with me at 3 — went into the church — neatly kept and good, in the Italian style
of gilded finery about the altars — long talk with the priest at the church yard door — he asked if the Roman catholics
were free in England and would fain have converted me to the belief of the real presence — went into the 3 naturalists
shops — saw the 2 the living Chamois [Chamonix] chez Michel Carrier (the male — he had lately killed the female with a push of his horn into
the ventre — and a young male nearly at his growth bred in confinement), — and bought little model
of the valley of Chamouni [Chamonix] also chez Michel Carrier — Had the guide chef about changing one of the
mules I had today, — A-’s [Ann] that she did not like — he was very civil but said he had not the power to
make the change — mules and men must go in turn, unless (for I had asked for Joseph Coutet the
cleverest naturalist of the set) I chose to pay 3/. a day (1/2 price) extra for the guide so taken out
of his turn which 3/. went to the general fund — satisfied enough with my 2 guides, David Foliguet and
Michel Dévouassoud, but if I could not have another mule instead of the one objected to, I would change
my plan and go to Martigny, and have guides and mules from there for the tour of Mont Blanc — home at 5 3/4
just after a heavy shower — dinner at 6 1/2 to 9 — Had had David again — nothing could be decided till morning —
fine day till afternoon — then rain and ditto heavy in the evening Fahrenheit 64° at 9 55/.. p.m. — Saw at Montanvert
herbarium at 25/. 300 plants — the rose of the alps is the rhododendron ferrugineum —

[margin text:] rhododendron ferrugineum

Sunday 6
5 1/2
9 5/..
@
Half hour with her and good long kiss last night ~ A- [Ann] very sick in the night — packing and dressing till breakfast
at 8 — left all behind us we could — even my journal book — had not even a change of night things and flannels, but took 5 chemises —
A- [Ann] had a gown, but not I — put on my pelisse and black stuff petticoat and light man’s straw hat I bought
at Geneva — And threw off my under petticoat took one napkin and paper ~ wore shoes and gaiters, and
spun silk tops and cotton socks — great coat and tartan cloak, and A- [Ann] had her old Outram cloak —
Fahrenheit 64° at 8 a.m. our 2 guides, and 3 mules (one for the baggage and for George to ride) and ourselves off
from Chamouni [Chamonix] at 10 1/2 — rode 1/4 hour, then walked to les Ouches there at 12 1/2 A- [Ann] walked with me
the last 1/2 hour — nice little church and village — a little beyond it, turn (left) up the mountain de Vauzaz — narrow fenced
off path partly through corn fields, and wood — pass 2 or 3 chalets — at 1 50/.., about 1/2 hour from the top A- [Ann]
sickish, and could ride no farther ¬¬— to crown our Malheur, we had a few drops of rain (had had a little shower or 2
before after leaving les Ouches) and were afraid of the weather — however luckily the rain held off and the afternoon and evening were
fine — A- [Ann] sat down on the grass for 35 minutes and this and a little noyau recruited her, and we set off again —
David had proposed going to the Pavillion de Bellevue on the Prarion mountain rising from the Vauzas on our
left ¬— but I determined to try for Contamine, 2 hours nearer than Nantbourant [Nant Borrant] which we had hoped to reach — at 3, we
DateJul 1834
Extent1 page
LevelPiece
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