Catalogue Finding NumberSH:7/ML/E/17/0051
Office record is held atCalderdale, West Yorkshire Archive Service
TitleDiary page
Description[Diary Transcription]

postilions and if I gave something to him (promised 5/.) he would pay them — at 1 50/.. heavy rain and thunder —
the rain continued all the rest of the way to Bonneville (cleared up for a short while very soon after our arrival)
and about 1/2 hour from the ville the thunder was so near and loud and the lightning so frequent and vivid A-’s [Ann] lips
turned pale, and she was a good deal frightened — At Bonneville at 4 1/4 (La poste) — settled to stay
all night — dinner at 5 1/2 in 50 minutes excellent roast veal — very comfortable — afterwards till 6 40/..
wrote all the above of today — this valley of Faucigny (the ruins of the old chateau of that name on conical
hill (left) at some little distance above the ville) very fine — just going out at 6 3/4 when rain again — looking
at maps and reading Ebel’s guide till 9 10/.. — fine morning and day till near 2 (vide top line) — perpetual
showers after the thunder storm had ceased about 4 1/2 — Fahrenheit 71° now at 9 p.m. — With her twenty
five minutes ~

Friday 4
4 3/4
11 20/..
Goodish kiss last night too short to her fine but rather cloudy morning not unlike more rain
Fahrenheit 68° at 5 3/4 a.m. — off from La poste Bonneville at 6 12/.. nice room and comfortable beds —
hops just out of Bonneville at Cluse [Cluses] at 7 3/4 — might sleep there apparently at the hotel de l’Ecu de France —
pretty good little town for such a situation — valley all the way very fine — narrow just out of Cluses
magnificent — the rain of yesterday swelling the streams — just room for the
Arve and the road — rather wide afterwards — at the grotto at 8 12/.. — did not stop to see it — I had seen it
in 1827 — 3 minutes giving the horses water — at St. Martin at 9 1/2 — if going direct
to Chamouni [Chamonix], need not cross the bridge to Sallenche [Sallanches], but go straight from St. Martin fine view from
the bridge — at Sallenche [Sallanches] at 9 35/.. — breakfast there at the hotel de Bellevue — fine view of Mont Blanc
from the balcony — arranged our things — packed my travelling bag for our mountain wanderings — left the
carriage and Eugenie to wait our return, took George and off in a char-à-banc (obliged to take
him inside) at 1 33/.. — at the Bains de St. Gervais in 23 minutes — very pretty — fine deep narrow
wooded valley — just behind the baths little more than room for the river — zig-zag path to some distance up the
hill for good view of the fine cascade about 200 yards from the house — wooden baths, douches,
and everything convenient enough — can accommodate about 150? people — 50 there now — the prime minister has
taken 2 rooms — 7 francs a day includes everything (for one person and one bed) and 6 francs a day for servants —
off at 2 50/.. and at Chède in 1/2 hour — very fine day all the way — at Servoz at 4 27/.. — while baiting the horses,
amuse ourselves in the shop, close by, of ‘Monsieur Deschamps naturaliste à Servoz au Savoie
par Genève à Servoz’ — buy herbaire of alpine plants 200 for 18/. — some very fine mineral
specimens — complete collection the neighbouring alps = 160 specimens for mineralogy + 80 for geology
a very nice good size for study and portability at 3/. per specimen — off at 5 3/4 — rain very
nearly all the way from Servoz to Chamouni [Chamonix] at 7 5/.. Hotel de Londres — A- [Ann] wet put her to bed
immediately before dinner at 8, and had the table placed at her bedside — 1 double bedded room and 1 single ditto adjoining
for George — our postillion would take us from Sallanche [Sallanches] to Geneva for 46 francs — had the guide chef —
dinner things not taken away till 9 1/2 — fine day till near 5 — then rainy all the day and evening Fahrenheit 67°
now at 10 1/2 p.m. —

July Saturday 5
5 35/..
No kiss only ten minutes with her and quiet ~ fine morning Fahrenheit 62° at 5 35/.. — long in dressing and settling things for
A- [Ann] and myself — breakfast at 7 40/.. — off at 8 55/.. and at Montanvert at 11 — walked about 1/2 way and rode about 1/2 the way
up letting George ride while I walked — went about a hundred yards on the mer de glace
A- [Ann] between the 2 guides — as far as people usually do go — in returning, went to the damp, low cave (in the style of
Gollis but sunk 2 steps instead of even with the ground) where Pocock and Windham slept, on discovering the valley of
Chamouni [Chamonix] and mer de glace — on the stone or rock forming the roof of the cave is cut in large reddened letters ‘Pocock
et Windham 1747’ — an hour at the mer de glace etc. — then 1/4 hour at the Pavillon getting boiled
milk, and off back again at 12 1/4 — home at 2, all of us having walked all the way down very quickly on account
of the rain — not heavy but constant from about 12 3/4 to near 2 — A- [Ann] not tired though much heated as well as myself —
took off her habit and went to bed for an hour and we all had boiled milk again — settling with David, the guide,
about journey tomorrow etc. A- [Ann] up and out with me at 3 — went into the church — neatly kept and good, in the Italian style
of gilded finery about the altars — long talk with the priest at the church yard door — he asked if the Roman catholics
were free in England and would fain have converted me to the belief of the real presence — went into the 3 naturalists
shops — saw the 2 the living Chamois [Chamonix] chez Michel Carrier (the male — he had lately killed the female with a push of his horn into
the ventre — and a young male nearly at his growth bred in confinement), — and bought little model
of the valley of Chamouni [Chamonix] also chez Michel Carrier — Had the guide chef about changing one of the
mules I had today, — A-’s [Ann] that she did not like — he was very civil but said he had not the power to
make the change — mules and men must go in turn, unless (for I had asked for Joseph Coutet the
cleverest naturalist of the set) I chose to pay 3/. a day (1/2 price) extra for the guide so taken out
of his turn which 3/. went to the general fund — satisfied enough with my 2 guides, David Foliguet and
Michel Dévouassoud, but if I could not have another mule instead of the one objected to, I would change
my plan and go to Martigny, and have guides and mules from there for the tour of Mont Blanc — home at 5 3/4
just after a heavy shower — dinner at 6 1/2 to 9 — Had had David again — nothing could be decided till morning —
fine day till afternoon — then rain and ditto heavy in the evening Fahrenheit 64° at 9 55/.. p.m. — Saw at Montanvert
herbarium at 25/. 300 plants — the rose of the alps is the rhododendron ferrugineum —

[margin text:] rhododendron ferrugineum

Sunday 6
5 1/2
9 5/..
Half hour with her and good long kiss last night ~ A- [Ann] very sick in the night — packing and dressing till breakfast
at 8 — left all behind us we could — even my journal book — had not even a change of night things and flannels, but took 5 chemises —
A- [Ann] had a gown, but not I — put on my pelisse and black stuff petticoat and light man’s straw hat I bought
at Geneva — And threw off my under petticoat took one napkin and paper ~ wore shoes and gaiters, and
spun silk tops and cotton socks — great coat and tartan cloak, and A- [Ann] had her old Outram cloak —
Fahrenheit 64° at 8 a.m. our 2 guides, and 3 mules (one for the baggage and for George to ride) and ourselves off
from Chamouni [Chamonix] at 10 1/2 — rode 1/4 hour, then walked to les Ouches there at 12 1/2 A- [Ann] walked with me
the last 1/2 hour — nice little church and village — a little beyond it, turn (left) up the mountain de Vauzaz — narrow fenced
off path partly through corn fields, and wood — pass 2 or 3 chalets — at 1 50/.., about 1/2 hour from the top A- [Ann]
sickish, and could ride no farther ¬¬— to crown our Malheur, we had a few drops of rain (had had a little shower or 2
before after leaving les Ouches) and were afraid of the weather — however luckily the rain held off and the afternoon and evening were
fine — A- [Ann] sat down on the grass for 35 minutes and this and a little noyau recruited her, and we set off again —
David had proposed going to the Pavillion de Bellevue on the Prarion mountain rising from the Vauzas on our
left ¬— but I determined to try for Contamine, 2 hours nearer than Nantbourant [Nant Borrant] which we had hoped to reach — at 3, we
DateJul 1834
Extent1 page


ReprodnNoteThis transcript has been created to allow keyword searching within our online catalogue. A full transcription (marked-up to show extended abbreviations and highlighting all coded extracts) can be found as a pdf version at the volume level entry SH:7/ML/E/17. Every attempt has been made to ensure the accuracy of this transcription, however, researchers are advised to check against the original diary images before quoting from the transcriptions. We are also happy to receive any corrections to improve the accuracy of the transcriptions if they are found. Further editing will also take place once the project nears completion. For further information about the transcription project see the Anne Lister Diary catalogue entry at SH:7/ML/E.
ReprodnRightsNoteIMAGE USE AND LICENSING - Individual images of Anne Lister’s diary can be used on SOCIAL MEDIA for NON-COMMERCIAL purposes at no charge with an acknowledgement to West Yorkshire Archive Service. For a Twitter or Facebook post the suggested acknowledgement is ‘Image courtesy of @wyorksarchives’. For an Instagram post the suggested acknowledgement is ‘Image courtesy of @westyorkshirearchive’. Requests for other forms of reuse or publication should be directed to the West Yorkshire Archive Service for approval. Licensing or publication fees may apply.TRANSCRIPTION USE AND LICENSING - Copyright in this transcription remains with the West Yorkshire Archive Service. Researchers are welcome to quote from the transcription and we request that they acknowledge their quotes with the words ‘West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale, SH:7/ML/E/17’. For quotes on a Twitter or Facebook post the suggested acknowledgement is ‘@wyorksarchives’. For an Instagram post the suggested acknowledgement is ‘@westyorkshirearchive’. Requests for other forms of reuse or publication of this transcription should be directed to the West Yorkshire Archive Service for approval. Licensing or publication fees may apply. The web link for this transcription is which can be used to link directly to this transcription.
    Powered by CalmView© 2008-2024