Catalogue Finding NumberSH:7/ML/E/17/0048
Office record is held atCalderdale, West Yorkshire Archive Service
TitleDiary page
Description[Diary Transcription]

beautiful Vallon des Vaux, and nearly at the end of end turn (left) and traverse to the top of the mountain
to the little Café and restaurant du Vallon de Vaux at 10 50/.. — walked up nearly the whole of the ascent and a little
beyond the café in 50 minutes — very fine view over the rich wooded extensive plain of Dôle — Poligny
very picturesquely situated at the very foot of the mountains — had the day been very clear I daresay could have seen
Dijon plain enough — the intervening towns and villes with their clochers scattered over the wide
plain forever peeping up among the wood — tolerably even and rich pretty drive along the mountain top
(the 1st mountain plain) to Montrond, a nice little scattered ville with old ruined round tower on top
of round hill (the Mont rond?) — cheval de renfort to Mont rond, but not from there the
next stage (Champagnole) — pretty drive to Champagnole 1 good street and then down steep descent to the other
part of the town where is la poste, a good looking hotel where we might have slept very
well — cheval de renfort again — the town
surrounded by fir and beech wooded mountains — got out of the carriage just out of the town, and walked
1/4 hour up the hill — and from 2 23/.. to 3 (the last 5 minutes downhill) A- [Ann] and I walked up the hill,
and then down the steep though shortish descent almost to Maison neuve [Maisonneuve] in a pretty little basin at the foot of pine-covered mountains — the poste
and hotel (a poor looking place) a lone house — a few good-looking houses scattered about at a little
distance — At 3 1/2 (in 1/4 hour’s slow trotting had gone about 1 mile English? from Maison neuve [Maisonneuve])
pass Le lion roux, a nice, clean, good-looking Auberge (‘on loge à pied et à cheval’ [‘we accommodate (travellers) on foot and on horseback’])
where we might have slept well enough — not very possible to have slept at la poste (at Maison neuve [Maisonneuve]) — at
St. Laurent at 4 3/4, very good, clean, well-built ville — Good-looking Hotel de l’Eau de
France, probably la poste, for the horses were there ready — I walked up the hill from 5 1/4 to 5 35/.. ,
the road along this narrow gorge cut out of the rock, with wood above and below — very fine descent upon
Morey from 4 3/4 for 57 minutes only seven of which about the middle of the descent without sabot, though, except at last, down upon
the deep gorge at the end of which is Morey, the road was very good and did not fall more than about 3 inches
at a yard — the postboy grumbled at my insisting on his not trotting with the sabot on, looked
as cross as the old gentleman and declared he would make me pay for the retard — making a new road a little
above the old one along the last point of this long descent just down upon the mountain torrent (dry now) that runs
along the bottom of the valley — seem intending to cross the stream and carry the road on the other side of it —
the valley of Morey a deep very narrow gorge little more than room for the nice, clean, good little town —
reminded me of the Pyrenees — the perpendicular limestone hoary rocks (200 toises, above 1200 English feet high)
very fine — at Morey at 7 47/.., La poste, good enough looking hotel but the dirtiest people we have met with and
the scantiest dinner we have had — however good beds (3 bedded room) large, lofty room, and comfortable enough
Rowe with the postillion — very impertinent — so would only give him at the rate of 15 sols per poste — because 1 1/2 came to
22 1/2 sols, he would not take the 23 sols, would have liards, because he thought and I said I had none — would not
take the money at 1st — had up the maître de poste, very civil but got out of the way — threatened to send
for one of the police (one of the women of the house said a gendarme) so got rid of the man — A- [Ann] laughing, George
trembling (like an aspen leaf) she said — dinner at 7 3/4 — the postillion business had prevented my
writing — very fine day — Fahrenheit 63 at 11 p.m. much cooler here on the Jura — Three quarters
hour with Miss Walker before getting into my own bed at eleven and a quarter —

June Monday 30
4 3/4
10 3/4
Two kisses last night before getting into my own bed — fine morning Fahrenheit 62 at 5 3/4 —
asked for the book of the maitre de poste and in spite of his telling me it was not worthwhile wrote as follows ‘Le 29
Juin, 1834. Madame Lister, dame Anglaise, allant de Paris à Génève, se plaint
de l’insolence du postillon Michel, Allemand, qui l’a conduite de St. Laurent jusqu’
a Morey’ [on 29th June, 1834. Mrs. Lister, an English lady, on her way from Paris to Geneva, complains of the insolence of the German postilion Michel, who drove her from St. Laurent to Morey] — Off from Morey at 6 18/.. — very fine ascent from Morey along the narrow beautiful
gorge — cheval de renfort from Poligny to Montrond, Champignole to St. Laurent, St. Laurent
to Morey or Morez, but only had it from Morey to Rousses — from 6 40/.. to 7 walked up the
mountain — very fine green, wooded, rocky gorge — At Rousses at 7 47/.. — nice little posthouse and
Inn (might sleep there very well) opposite the Douane — shewed the 3 passports, but nothing said about our baggage — care not what we take
out — would be particular enough about what we brought in — breakfast at 9 — before and after wrote out yesterday — Rousses
a small but good village off at 10 7/.. — at 10 20/.. got out and walked 10 minutes up the hill — then in 5 or 6
minutes more pass the road (left) leading to the new Swiss road along the lake to Geneva — the postboy said
the distance was the same as the road we were going and many travellers now went that way — But why hurry down
to Switzerland and the flat road along its lake, in preference to lingering along the Jura, and enjoying the matchless
1st view of the Leman waters? At 11 3/4 enter the fine winding deep valley which leads to
La Vattaye (at 11 57/..) a single house (La poste) very nice bedrooms, good house — might have slept and eaten there
very comfortably — 24 minutes here — Miss Walker all the while on the pot has very often two motions a day
she was ssickish and pee wee as usual but noyau [liqueur] afterwards in the carriage did her good — La Vattaye beautifully
situated in little high-situated plain embossed in fir forest and high hoary fir-sprinkled rocks — still
winding along the same fine valley (vide line 6 above) till 12 3/4 when, on reaching the top
of the pass, the rich plain, the lake (or rather the Rhone from soon after its quitting the lake) with
its magnificent screen of mountains, and Mont Blanc, burst upon our view — the celebrity of this view is deserved —
I do not remember having ever seen a finer — in 5 minutes the drag was put on, and the postboy had also
tied fast the wheel with ropes, and we began the descent which lasted till 2 26/.. when having passed through
the main part of the town of Gex, we had one steepish street and then disencumbered the wheel, and 4 minutes
afterwards stopt at la poste (at the far end of the town) a nice little Inn where, so nice was the
garden at the back, and so fine the air, and the view, and so comfortable the bedroom we were in, we thought
we could spend a few quiet days very well — A- [Ann] being ready for something to eat, had a nice
(cold) pickled trout and lay down all the while (for 1/2 hour) — Gex a goodish little country town —
no inquiry about passports — Off again at 3 — fine rich plain — very good road, but so flat, could see
nothing but the trees and hedges and yellow corn (only observed 3 or 4 patches of vine) close alongside, except
the mountains and Mont Blanc 1/2 way up the horizon — fine wheat dead ripe — At Fernéy
(Voltaire’s chateau) at 3 50/.. — one of the women servants shewed his chamber — nothing particular except a sort of
mausolée to his memory in the fire-place — a brick-floored, 2 windowed, nice enough, not large room opening
into the hall or salle à manger where Voltaire used to entertain his friends — 3 or 4 minutes sufficed for seeing this —
then saw the gardens — the fine view of Mont Blanc finer said the man (ætatis [age of] 71 but looking much younger the son of Voltaire’s
gardener) than the view people go for to the little height above the ville of the great Sacconnex — and saw the hornbeam
DateJun 1834
Extent1 page


ReprodnNoteThis transcript has been created to allow keyword searching within our online catalogue. A full transcription (marked-up to show extended abbreviations and highlighting all coded extracts) can be found as a pdf version at the volume level entry SH:7/ML/E/17. Every attempt has been made to ensure the accuracy of this transcription, however, researchers are advised to check against the original diary images before quoting from the transcriptions. We are also happy to receive any corrections to improve the accuracy of the transcriptions if they are found. Further editing will also take place once the project nears completion. For further information about the transcription project see the Anne Lister Diary catalogue entry at SH:7/ML/E.
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