Catalogue Finding NumberSH:7/ML/E/17/0047
Office record is held atCalderdale, West Yorkshire Archive Service
TitleDiary page
Description[Diary Transcription]

84
1834
June Friday 27
5 1/4
11 20/..
U
U
fine morning Fahrenheit 68 1/2 at 5 1/2 — No kiss she asleep so got quietly into my own bed in the same room
had dressing room — breakfast at 6 1/2 — off from La poste Rouvray (comfortable though a mere auberge in
appearance) at 7 33/.. — the hotel du Léopard no longer exists — what we passed last night is the hotel de l'ancienne poste, in appearance quite as good as where we are — pretty country about Rouvray — here begins the district of the Côte d'or, so called from the
fertility of the hills — fine country from Rouvray to Maison neuve — the hills though granitic not âpres, but
cultivated, rich and well wooded — Maison neuve seems a shabby little town — At Vittaux at
11 10/.. and off from there at 11 18/.. — the part we drove through (did not see the hotel — hotel des Diligences, said to be good) old, ill paved,
and shabby looking — fine country — the hills close more in upon us — Chiefly covered with vines — with
corn, or wood, or rock above them, and corn and grass etc. along the bottom of the valley — black clouds and
wind and thunder as we slowly arced (in 3/4 hour) the Montagne de Vittaux just on leaving the
town — the rain came on but not very heavy — the storm was at some distance — before 12 and continued more or less till within 2 or 3 miles of Dijon and then fine and sunny
very hilly road from Vittaux to La Chalum, merely the poste and a few houses — fine drive to Pont Pany (only
but more so) from Pont Pany to Dijon — just out of Pont Pany the valley narrows to about a mile? and is very fine — the nice little river
a few houses besides the poste an hotel where one could sleep Ouche and the canal de Bourgignon [canal de Bourgogne] close alongside of us (left) till we crossed the bridge into
Plombiers [Plombières] at 4 (about a poste from Dijon) and left there at some distance right — Plombières a picturesque ville with
steeple covered with various coloured tiles — 6 or 7 minutes from Plombières the valley opens to a considerable width
and we have vines again which we had not observed since passing the Montagne de Vittaux — quite a
garden from Plombières, and beautiful drive to Dijon — beautiful drive all the way from Pont Pany —
alight opposite the Poste, at the hotel de la Cloche, at 4 28/.. — 2 single bedded rooms as last night —
tidied mine, and then wrote out the above of today till dinner at 5 40/.. — Miss Walker and I out at 7 10/.. took
George — went to the musée in 5 or 6 salles of the old ducal palace — a few pictures of the old masters
2 or 3 pretty good ones — the rest modern — the walls well covered with them — one salle of statuary but all
modern — copies by the young men of the school of Dijon studying at Rome — in the 1st salle, the
tomb of Philip sans peur (Philip the bold) and his wife Margaret de Bavière, and that of Philip le Hardi,
(Dukes of Burgundy) taken from the Chartreuse here (destroyed in the 1st revolution) very handsome — all in
marble — the sculpture beautiful — tombs very large — the figures on the tableau part are good likenesses — the antiques
found in the rue des Sincas [rue des Incas] in 1819 are put downstairs close to the grand staircase by which you go up to
the musée — they are pieces of columns capitals — observed one Roman cippus etc. — from the musée went to
the large handsome old gothic church of Notre Dame with fine painted glass windows — then to the handsome but less handsome church of St. Michel
a sort of middle age gothic exterior looking better at a distance than quite near — handsome vestibule leading
into the nave — very handsome exterior with large corinthian portico of theatre — a concert of the great musicians
from Paris held there this evening — Drouet the great flute player, the leader — then walked about the town, and
in the park and home at 8 55/.. — very fine from about 4 p.m. Fahrenheit 69 at 9 40/.. — Went to her bed at ten —

Saturday 28
5 50/..
10 55/..
With her from ten to eleven and a quarter and a long very good kiss to her and tolerable to me fine
morning Fahrenheit 57 1/2° at 6 10/.. — breakfast at 7 1/4 — wrote the last 15 lines till 8 3/4 — Hotel de la Cloche very
comfortable — good eating — attentive civil people — Miss Walker and I out at 9 1/4 — cathedral — good old gothic church but
not so handsome as Notre Dame we saw last night — At the botanic garden called Jardin des plantes at 9 40/.. — the old one given up, and this
new one not quite finished — approached through a piece of nicely laid out, wooded (with large trees) piece of ground
in which boys were playing, and seeming to belong to a good pile of brick building adjoining the garden — perhaps (from
the no. [number] of beds in a room) a school — much pleased with the garden — only wish it larger — (a square of about 3 or 4 acres?)


85
1834
June
all the trees, shrubs and flowers planted quite recently — a winding stream all through (across from corner to corner) the garden with a little basin and boat on it —
2 or 3 pieces of pretty rock-made mount, and a gothic seat hide the end wall, too little distant as one
faces it on entering — small but picturesque serres near the top of the garden, nicely placed the right side wall
on entering — flower beds (as at the Jardin des plantes Paris) laid out in narrow stripes, but looking more soignés
from being all box-edged and having 2 feet gravel walks between — all the plants ticketed (Linnaean system?)
Sambucus nigra common Elder — Fedia, (forget-me-not?) — Dipsacus, teazle — Cineraria
maritima (white velvety stalks and leaves ragged, like senecio (dogstander)) — Off from the hotel de la
Cloche (very comfortable — good eating) Dijon at 10 47/.. — Dijon a very nice good provincial town, in a
fine country — Genlis (1st relais) very neat little ville — Auxonne fortified goodish town —
stopt on entering the poste de ville to shew passports and at the café opposite for café au lait for A- [Ann] had
it in 22 minutes — walked forwards to the poste, and off in 2 minutes more at 2 18/.. — soon after Dijon, on getting
to the top of the 1st rising ground 1st view of a saddlebacked mountain of the Jura range — wide, fertile plain (corn) India ditto 1st we have seen potatoes lucerne grass etc. around
Dijon and all the way till the wooded hills en face gradually closing upon us on nearing Dôle till at 3 40/.. from the top of the hill
(or mountain?) just above Dôle, very fine rich view — large vine-covered sufficiently wooded plain to
our right, Auxonne behind us, and the good-looking town of Dôle with it’s church steeples en face backed
by the long line of Jura mountains — not like Alps or Pyrennees [Pyrenees], but very fine — views for the last
hour (from about 2 40/..) and all about Dôle in the rich plain, little else — at Dôle at
4 11/.. — no postillion — obliged to wait — so drove to the hotel de Paris close by — dined (very good dinner) at 5 in an hour —
before and after till 6 1/4 wrote the above of today — off from Dôle at 6 22/.. — no views much beyond Dôle
corn, India ditto, hemp etc. as before — the Jura not more than the wolds 1/2 way between York and Market Weighton
now at 8 1/4 — picturesque villes all today — at La poste Mont Sons Vaudré at 8 35/.. — a mere auberge —
but a nice enough double bedded room and wanting nor dinner nor breakfast in the morning (but which by the way
would I daresay have been very fair) we do very well — some little more than usual difficulty in bargaining for the
4 beds for 6/. — fine morning, though blackish clouds about soon after 12, and showers in the afternoon, but fair
and fine from between 4 and 5 for the rest of the evening — Fahrenheit 68 at 9 p.m. —

Sunday 29
4 38/..
11 1/4
@
With her an hour and five minutes and two kisses very fine morning Fahrenheit 68 at 5 1/4 — Off from Mont
sous Vaudré [Mont-sous-Vaudrey] at 5 38/.. just an hour from the time of my getting out of bed — slept comfortably — good beds as
everywhere — charming morning — nice rich corn country — the country from Dôle here, bare of wood,
and not so pretty as before — from here (Mont sous Vaudré) to Poligny rich corn country finer as it nears the mountains — just out
of Mont sous Vaudré a league’s drive through the forest of Rahon and all the way good road — easy descent upon
Poligny seated amid vines that creep up some distance on the high mountain sides — the town though shabby streets on entering and very narrow a pretty good one
and very tolerable hotel an grand chef where we have just breakfasted — excellent milk and good alpine strawberries — the houses are
at the very foot of the mountains — bare rock and shingle sparingly covered with herbage rise almost perpendicular above the
houses — but some of the Craven hills look as considerable — At Poligny at 7 35/.. and off at 9 48/.. Miss Walker
lay down for 1/2 hour before and as long after breakfast and having eaten biscuits in the carriage going a stage before breakfast seems to have
suited her very well — I have not enjoyed my breakfast so much since leaving home — for on breakfasting immediately after getting up
I never eat with relish — narrow shabby streets on sortent as well as on entrent Poligny — rocky hills terraced
almost to the top with vines — pass the old convent, now a séminaire with 400 jeunes gens, in the fine
DateJun 1834
Extent1 page
LevelPiece
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