| Description | [Diary Transcription]
2
1828
May
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could not tell the exact dimensions — 2 stories of windows — roof supported by five couples of pillars
forming a sort of nave and side aisles of equal height — ceiling flat with a light dome in the middle — [illegible] 9 lines of [illegible] eating trough
no separation between the cows — a drain at the back of each of the 9 lines of cows carries off the water
into reservoirs below — the cowhouse standing on arches, and thus completely cellared — the farmers
come and fetch away this dung-water, and give in return turnips, potatoes, etc. — no air let into the
cowhouse but by opening windows and doors — a ventilator in one corner to take off the bad air —
but what is all this? — when the doors are not open, fresh air cannot come into the place near enough to
the ground, the lowmost windows being above the cows' heads — the place is very rarely washed for fear
of giving the cows cold, and, in spite of doors and windows open, I found it close, and smelling strong —
From the dairy drove to Holyrood house (and there dismissed our hackney coach) to see the picture of MacNab of
MacNab in Lord Breadalbane's apartments — a fine, interesting picture with George 4 on his visit was much
pleased — the palace undergoing a thorough repair, his majesty having granted £5000 a year for 10 years?
for this purpose — from the palace went along what is called the park, and thence all along the Radical walk (lately made) under the
Salisbury crags — very fine view of the town — at the end, got over a gate and went to a little (apparently)
church, and here left Miss Riddell to wait while I went up to the top of Arthur's Seat — went
round a little, and got to the top in 10 minutes as fast as I could — wind very high — dared not stand, but sat a
while on the topmost crag admiring the fine views all around me — well worth the trouble —
amply repaid — no traveller should miss it — the city as on a map at my feet — the firth of Forth
very fine — descended in 10 minutes right down in a straight line down the crag, never dreaming
of its being so bad — ladies should not attempt it, but go round — Miss Riddell and I then walked straight along
the Pleasants, all along a part I had not seen before, getting into Southbridge street etc. shopped a little, and got home
at 5 3/4 — found Miss MacLean there — sat talking Miss Riddell tired and lying on the sofa — And took a glass of wine
I had paid all for her without her ever saying a word and she had seen nothing of it all before so
was lucky in getting hold of me I should have done much more cheaply and better without her
and wished myself by myself — Dinner at 6 1/2 — gravy soup — veal cutlets, and piece of roast beef — mashed potatoes and
cauliflowers — cheese and cold butter and biscuits — pressed pine, apples, and the biscuits — port wine — well enough —
our visitor seemed well enough amused — wrote us out 2 plans of excursions — staid till 10 10/60 — sat up
talking — came to my room at 11 — fine day —
[margin text:] the women could not tell whether the concern answered
well or not — some said it did some said it did not pay well —
no water put into the milk — this the public good of it —
otherwise I should think this milk company a hurt to the farmers
and unnecessary to the public at large —
Saturday 31
8
11 35/60
Quiet the two last nights — all packed and at breakfast at 9 1/2 — paid the bill — off at 10 1/4 in a hackney coach from
Gianetti's lodgings, 35 George street, Edinburgh, where we have really been very comfortable — nothing in the world to
find fault with — the man drove us to the Trinity chain pier, Leith (2 miles) in 19 minutes — handsome streets and houses
almost all the way — the chain pier good, and a very great convenience, but not so long, so wide broad, nor
1/2 so handsome as that at Brighton — yet more convenient for passengers' embarking — a broad covered place
at the end from which one descended by steps under cover down to the vessel — on board above 40 minutes before we
were off, and almost sick with the smell of the engine before the vessel began to move — the morning star –
pretty full of passengers — but a small vessel — highish wind, and right against us — off at 11 1/2 — too squeamish
to look very much about me — Edinburgh — the coast of Fife — very fine — the country houses, and villages very picturesque —
the fortified islet of Inchgarvie, just before reaching North and South Queensferry, very picturesque — a little beyond
3
1828
May
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Hopetown house, on the left, ‘Abercorn Kirk, near to where the Roman wall terminated, and
Blackness Castle, seated upon a long narrow peninsula’ 347/415 Scottish Tourist — ‘In the far
distance, the summits of the Grampians are seen above the intervening Ochils’ 347/415. ‘Between
Alloa and Sterling the windings of the river, usually called the Links of Forth, are uncommonly fine; the
course by water is 19 1/2 miles, and by land only 7’ — 350/415. a little below Stirling, the ruins of
Cambuskenneth abbey — the belfry, and a small part of the walls all that remain — given by James 6 to the
Earl of Mar, bought in 1709 by the magistrates of Stirling for the benefit of Cowan's hospital 350/415.
Abbey Craig (right) very fine — Stirling castle as seen from here seems approached by a long
line of steps of hill rising 1 above another on the mountain's back — the town in one long line midway
its side — landed at 5 as near the town as we could, but had 4 or 5 minutes walk to Gibb's, the Golden lion —
we had been 5 1/2 hours in making the voyage, highish wind right against us all the way —
a very fine sail — nothing in the voyage up the Thames to London to equal it in point of
scenery — from 5 3/4 to 7 walked (alone) through Stirling past the Greyfriars, a large handsome gothic
building by James 5 now divided into 2 Presbyterian churches — thence to the castle — no part of
the interior of the building now shewn — all converted into barracks, and stores, and Lieutenant general Grey's
(the governor) house — the depot of the 42nd, highland regiment — the chapel the armory — might have seen this
nothing but modern arms in it — peeped into the lower rooms of it — saw John Knox's pulpit — much the
same as the one in the museum of Antiquities in Edinburgh — the view from the castle yard what travellers
go to see — very fine, but not ‘the finest in the world’ 54/415 — I like that from Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh, better —
In returning, walked all round under the castle along the handsome gravel walk — the rock on this side
(the south) very fine — quite perpendicular — the Round Table, on this side, still very distinct —
Stirling contains about 8000 inhabitants — a nice town enough — some nice, handsome looking, small houses
built on the Edinburgh road — Waterloo Place a nice part of the town — several widows and single ladies
there to live cheap — coals to be had for next to nothing — Dinner at 7 1/4 — fine day till about
6 1/2, then a slight shower and after I got home a rainy evening and night —
June Sunday 1
8 3/4
2 1/4
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§
Had a little room and bed to myself the first time since being with Miss MacLean said I was in a foolish humour
from the whiskey punch it was better not to run any risk of being too foolish in fact I am afra
id of sleeping with her on account of her cough and care not to make love too far I do quite e
nough she looks oldish in the face yet takes all very well though properly enough yet I see
that if I seriously pushed the matter I might succeed but I forever now talk of ha
ving π [Mariana] if anything happens to L [Charles Lawton] no motion neither this morning nor yesterday
nor Friday feel heated, languid, heavy, sleepy, not capable of much exertion and not well —
breakfast at 10 1/4 — went to the Episcopalian chapel to hear Bishop Gregg, who merely read part of the
communion service, and gave the blessing after the service — did not wear his lawn sleeves — a young man
did the duty — preached 1/2 hour from John iii.5. very fairly but I was too sleepy to be able to
attend much — there at 11, home at 1 1/2 — we walked to Waterloo place to call on 2 Miss
Macleans — not at home — Off from Gibb's, Stirling, in a post chaise at 1 55/60 — perpetual showers
or should have walked to Bannockburn 2 miles — should have liked to have gone
to Ardoch 12 miles (‘the Roman camp upon this estate is the most entire perfect in Britain’
57/415 Scottish tourist) but have not time — at 2 55/60 alight [illegible] at the mill of Torr,
to see ‘the great Persian wheel employed in raising the water for floating into the Forth
the moss of Kincardine’ 59/415 — close to Mr. Home Drummond's entrance gate —
[margin text:]
miles
Stirling to Callender 16
Callender to Trosachs [Trossachs] 10
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