| Description | [Diary Transcription]
313
1828
May
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coal country — rail-ways — raised on the black shale, and here and there the smoke of an
Engine to be described — Houghton-landspring 1/2 way between Durham and Sunderland — a niceish good
village — no 'squire — only the rector who has a low but handsome 2 storied gothic house approached
by a handsome castle-like gateway — very good-looking church — the people talked of
Houghton bank — It was by this — rising gently steeple from the village, that we crossed the great ridge of the lime hill —
about 2 years since they cut through the hill (3 or 4 hundred yards in length) the present road which is in the deepest part, they say, 15 yards deep —
almost all was done by blasting — the sides perpendicular — no complaint of its being filled
up with snow last winter — does not look more than 7 yards wide if so much — only just room for
2 carriages to pass comfortably — Singular looking cleft as one saw it in the distance on approaching
Houghton — no view of the sea till within 2 or 3 miles of Sunderland, though perhaps one ought
to see it from the top of Houghton bank — brick or limestone buildings all the way — villages pretty
good — the coachman pointed out where Wearmouth ended and Sunderland began — fine, broad, handsome
long street — nothing like it in Durham — alighted at the George Inn at 7 10/60 — hearing that a
coach would leave the Golden Lion at 8 1/2 in the morning for NewCastle, went and took up my quarters
there for the night — best Inn in Sunderland — no great appearance outside, but apparently plenty of rooms —
got into a little sitting room by the door, with a roaring fire in it, hot as flames — though a
little starved on entering, soon obliged to open the window — had tea immediately — not a muffin
nor tea cake in the house, but not having eaten since breakfast at 9 1/2 made a hearty meal
on dry toast and butter — market day, too, at Sunderland — the market held in the street, but the
butchers' stalls, all looked neat and well — went to my room at 9 1/2 — The chamber maid shewed me
into a much smaller room than I had seen on entering said it was the under maid the other was
engaged I remonstrated said I was annoyed sent for the mistress she was out when
would she up in the morning not till eleven sat up late made the woman change me into
the next room which was however the same or no better than the other found the people
took me for a nobody and I suspected on seeing the waiter last night and quietly res
olved to make the best of it determining to save my money ~ Do not believe the bed
was damp, but slept on my plaid and in my drawers and great coat — everything very clean —
very fine day —
Sunday 18
6 1/4
11 3/4
all packed up, and out at 7 1/2 — went to look at the bridge — 9 1/2 times my umbrella stick wide (about 37 inches long)
including the about 1 1/2 yard wide flagged causeway on each side — the whole length 170 my common paces — of which the
span of the iron arch is about 90 paces — height, said the man who took the toll (1/2 d. per foot passenger for each time of passing and repassing)
136 feet — very fine bridge (over the wear, sea about 3/4 mile off), but a baby-bridge compared with that
over the Menai — enormous mass of abutment building into the hill at the north end — is it hollow?
5 stories high of as it were little doors or square openings into it — not 1/2 the building at the south end — met with a very civil man
on the bridge who was going towards the staiths, and walked with him — bridge built about 40 years ago —
several years since the tolls let for £5 a day — worth much more now — very heavy carriage went over it—
though several years ago they found the foundations had given way a little, and the bridge given way a little to the East —
alarmed at first, but it had got no worse, and people were not therefore afraid now — the Lambton
coal staiths nearest to the bridge, then the Hetton, and the marquis Londerry had a few drops higher up
the river — he had just agreed for a bit of ground a little beyond the Hettonworks that they might not increase
their boundary — They were at great expense but got a deal of coal — so much capital requireed there were fewer partners now than at first,
[margin text:] Sunderland to Newcastle 12 miles.
314
1828
May —
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Several had sold out their shares — Mr. Scruton of Durham had advanced £18,000 — was then obliged
to sell his estate to raise money, and lastly obliged to sell his share in the colliery, and the partners had still
lost by him — a deal of money laid out — £40,000 here and £40,000 there — a deal of the
expensive buildings now useless — and always something to do — Mr. Dalton laid nine miles of rail road —
the Hetton mines are somewhere not far from Elemore — lay wide to our right as we were
about a mile out of Durham to Sunderland — said I Mr. Lambton now Lord Durham is poor (they said at Croft, his estate
was put out to nurse and he was allowed £10,000 a year) yes! said my friend, but if he will live
upon what they allow him, he will be clear again in 21 years — he has made many a gentleman —
all his stewards are gentlemen — he had just been here, and made a great rowe among the people —
something has been going wrong — and Mr. Lambton Loraine who used to come only sometimes now comes
every day to look after them — these Staiths all along the (south) precipitous lime rock bank of the
river are certainly very curious — the huge cranes (or drops) which let down and empty the waggons into the vessels
at a great depth below — unfortunately I was too late last night, and, today being Sunday, could not see them at work today —
the river full of shipping — but said the man, the shipping trade is very low low now — there
is not enough foreign trade — this free bottom trade, if it lasts 10 years (the term agreed upon)
will make sad work here — 2 thirds the ship owners will be ruined — we have only had
it 47 years, and things are gradually worse and worse — after all those unions and things among the workmen
the gents. gentlemen petitioned for this free trade system thinking it would only hurt them the poor people, but now they find
it hurts themselves as much — a deal of foreign ships come now — I was now however obliged to return
to the Inn to see about the coach — just got back in time — off directly at 8 3/4 — took my place outside,
and sat with the coachman — Sunderland and Wearmouth together form a large well-built brick town —
a peep of the blue sea, but not for long as we skirted along the high ground — Saw South Shields
at a distance on our right — 3 or 4 goodish limestone built villages — and a few short
steep hills — good limestone road, but very dusty — Newcastle a fine looking brick town — 2 largish,
reddish-stone handsome looking churches — on crossing the Tyne the handsome stone doric-porticoed town house
a handsome object topped by the fine old castle tower — alighted at a little ale house at
10 35/60, and came immediately here (not far) to the Queen's head, the best Inn, Kept by Dr.
Hunter's old butler Dodsworth — Breakfast immediately — ready enough for it — and enjoyed
my muffin, a little dry toast and an egg — Comfortable sitting room — ordered dinner at 6 — and from 11 1/2 to
5 1/4 wrote out the journals of Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday and so far of today — then till dinner at 6
and for about 3/4 hour afterwards till 9 1/2 wrote out index from 21 April up to today — just as I had finished my dinner
sent to Mr. Dodsworth [illegible] to say a lady wished to speak to him — the man seemed literally
and truly glad to see me — called out once or twice, but except that sat with me the whole time from about 6 1/2 to
9 — had his wife in to see her — a nice little woman enough a Wormall? from Rickley about 6 miles from York on the Selby road — they
have 5 children — 3 boys 2 girls — never had a wrong word these almost 9 years they have been married — Sad Times here for
every body — the shipping interest ruined by the free trade system — no posting — all the families gone abroad, or
away, and the steam ruin both posting and coaching — he has about 80 horses — horses the mails and a coach altogether
about 60 miles — for the quick mails obliged to keep a horse per mile i.e. a horse for every mile of
distance they horse the mail — and this hardly enough in winter — The mails don't now pay well but this should not
be said except in private - values his sstock in trade at seven or eight thousand and has three
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